If somebody said to us, ‘You’ve got 24 hours and an unlimited budget to buy as much outerwear as you want,’ our compass would only be pointing one direction – East. We’d be boarding the first flight to Seoul, raiding as many fancy outdoor retailers as possible, before jetting over to Tokyo and doing the same exact thing. It’s hard to put into words exactly why, but Northeast Asia sits firmly at the summit of high-performance, technical outerwear.
Japan and South Korea are home to some of the finest outdoor brands in existence, and as much as Western equivalents can try to replicate the magic, they’ll never be able to fully match the quality of Northeast Asian brands. Maybe it’s the Japanese philosophy of Kaizen – the pursuit of constant, incremental improvement – or Korea’s drive for technical perfection and attention to detail, whatever the reason, the results & garments speak for themselves.
It seems that this pool of Northeast Asian outdoor brands is forever-increasing, but there are four stalwarts that we keep going back to, season after season – Goldwin, NANGA, CAYL & SAN SAN GEAR. Each brand has its own interpretation of how technical outerwear should look and function, but are grouped together by their meticulous attention to detail and relentless approach to innovation. In other words, they make coats that look dead good, and perform even better.
In this article, we’re going to talk you through this season’s heaviest hitters, and why you should almost certainly set aside an allowance for some Japanese & Korean outerwear this winter.
GOLDWIN
Of all the brands in this guide, Goldwin might just be the most consistent of them all. Season after season, the Japanese heavyweight comes up with the goods. Massive down-filled parkas, high loft insulated vests, and fully taped shell jackets that could withstand a monsoon.
Starting life as a distributor for American outdoor brands such as The North Face & Helly Hansen, Goldwin understands the value of outerwear that can truly hold up against the elements, even though most people wearing it in the UK are doing so on a 15-minute commute to the pub/office. But bragging rights matter, and a piece of Goldwin outerwear will arm you with plenty.
Goldwin Pertex Quantum Down Parka Jacket
Ever since it was introduced several years ago, Goldwin’s Pertex Quantum Down Parka has been back every season since. It’s the first Goldwin item on every respected retail buyer’s list, and for good reason – this jacket is an absolute behemoth. Pertex Quantum face fabric. Loads of zip pockets. And tons of high-grade down feathers. This Gunmetal colour might just be the best the Quantum Down Parka has ever looked too, like something NASA would hand out as uniform.
Goldwin Pertex Unlimited 2L Jacket
The Pertex Unlimited 2L Jacket has been designed to offer dependable protection in unpredictable conditions, making it particularly suited for running errands in British weather – light and breathable enough for riding a bike to Tesco’s, but functional enough that you could take a detour over Scafell Pike on the journey back, should you want to.
NANGA
NANGA is our oldest brand on this list, but the company hasn’t always specialised in sublime outerwear. The brand actually started life in 1941, stitching futons – you know, those comfy sofa bed things? Anyway, somewhere along the line, NANGA started tinkering with down and got really, really good at making jackets.
What’s more, NANGA’s fearless approach to colour only deepens our admiration for the brand. With such a vast catalogue of outerwear to choose from, narrowing our selections to just three was no easy task – but, alas, we’re confident we’ve chosen wisely.
NANGA Mountain Lodge Hooded Down Jacket
The Mountain Lodge Hooded Down Jacket might just be the best all-around down jacket for the average person. These jackets are incredibly lightweight and more than warm enough for the British climate, without going overkill. NANGA have also managed to master that beautiful face fabric sheen that’s reminiscent of old duvet jackets from the ’80s.
You know what we were saying about Nanga pushing the boat out in the colour department? Yeah, this Ultralight Down Parka is a prime example of that. In theory, these shades should never work together, but somehow NANGA have managed it. Aside from the fantastic colour palette, the Ultralight down parka has some of the nicest chest pockets we’ve seen in a while.
More understated than NANGA’s typical offerings, the Liteforce Down Jacket is perfect for those of you who like to fly a little more under the radar. With that said, big coat aficionados are still gonna sniff this beast out from a mile off.
CAYL
Shifting our gaze North of Nippon – CAYL is the first South Korean brand to appear on our list and more often than not, the first one we reach for when browsing a luxury outdoor shop. Founded in 2011, CAYL (Climb As You Love) may be younger than Nanga and Goldwin, but this doesn’t stop the brand from standing shoulder to shoulder with the heavyweights, consistently turning out top-tier outdoor apparel and equipment season after season.
With a focus around outdoor activities that get your heart pumping – climbing, running, and the like – CAYL gear tends to be highly breathable, lightweight and performance-focused. Ideal bits for layering in and amongst other technical outdoor brands – if your wallet permits it.
CAYL love an acronym – their name’s one after all – and we’re guessing this jacket’s ‘WR’ stands for ‘wind resistant.’ Naming efficiency aside, this is a lightweight piece of outerwear you’ll end up wearing like a second (orange) skin. Ideal for running, cycling, or just lounging around afterwards.
Designing a gold down jacket without it looking like something salvaged from Kanye West’s 2007 wardrobe is no easy task, but CAYL have pulled it off effortlessly. To be fair, it’s more bronze than gold anyway. Beyond the colour, the symmetrical square baffles are a nice touch – and a two-way zip never hurts either.
If you want to depend on a jacket to keep you dry during the apocalypse, you should be reaching for this one. With three laminated layers and fully taped seams and zips, the 3L Mountain Jacket isn’t going to let a drop through without a fight – even if you’re the type to test your new hardshell in the shower like those Instagram weirdos.
SAN SAN GEAR
Closing out our list is SAN SAN GEAR. The brand whose name derives from the Korean word for mountain is arguably the most ‘fashion’ outdoor brand on this list, but this doesn’t mean the gear doesn’t stand up when the elements bare their teeth.
What you can expect with SAN SAN GEAR is a wealth of experimentation. Experimental cuts, experimental detailing, and experimental fabrics. Think of it as a sort of blend between Nike Gyakusou and ACRONYM, only with less black, and more earth tones. It’s the kind of clothing that makes people pause mid-croissant to reverse image search SAN SAN Gear’s logo as you peruse baked goods at the local patisserie.
If you think the front of this jacket is good, just wait until you see the back. There’s a massive rear zip that looks as if SAN SAN GEAR have been taking design cues from old Barbour catalogues. Of course, the whole thing has been packaged up with San San Gear’s signature minimalist sensibility.
SAN SAN GEAR Shade Puffer Jacket
This Shade Puffer Jacket looks as if it has emerged from an otherworldly dimension where big coats are as vital to survival as oxygen is on earth. This is an absolute unit, and that translucent face fabric is a clever touch – perfect for checking that your down’s still happily fluffed inside its ginormous baffles..
