Certain brands age like fine wine – getting slowly better as the years progress. Purple Mountain Observatory doesn’t do that. They’re getting better, much, much quicker. Honing their craft and improving every single season. Just as we think we’ve got PMO fully figured out, they’ll unveil a new piece of outerwear in some mental fabric that totally blows our minds.
PMO’s four-year existence only makes this dynamism all the more impressive. They’ve very quickly graduated from ‘a brand to watch‘ to ‘a brand everyone’s watching‘, and this has no doubt been influenced by the quality of their gear, which has genuine outdoor credentials and some of the best colour palettes we’ve ever seen.
We’ve been meaning to catch up with the brand for some time now, and the other day we were finally presented with the golden opportunity. Over a virtual chat, we spoke about how it all started, why they’re moving faster than most, and what’s next for one of Britain’s most exciting outdoor brands.
You’re only four years in, but the brand seems to be going from strength to strength. What do you think that’s down to? What are you dead, dead good at?
Honestly, it’s just seriously hard work that me and the team put in that’s driving the brand. We weren’t gifted with funding, Instagram fame or “In roads” to retailers, but what we lacked in that we gained in knowledge of design and fabric, work ethic to succeed, factory support and brilliant pals that wanted to help us out and be part of the journey.
We’re still the small player in a massive market, but it’s great watching the big names take note of what we’re up to.
Take us back to the beginning. What made you take the plunge and actually create a brand of your own?
Lockdown was the catalyst for sure. I lost my job after 10 years of service and knew I couldn’t give my all to a corporate giant again. I was someone who wanted to find a way of merging my life aspirations with my business goals, rather than sitting in endless meetings and sign-offs. I was someone who spent more time outdoors than in and wanted a way to travel and meet great people.
The outdoor scene is full of great people. I was in fashion for a while, and it’s harder to build real, authentic relationships, but when you have similar goals and passions like the people in the outdoor wo,rld it’s natural!
I started sketching ideas of what I wanted for my trips and then went about finding a factory partner. This was the easy part for me, actually, as I had great friends who already owned really good factories.
The brand is inspired by the outdoors. How seriously do you want to be seen in those circles? Would you imagine people wearing PMO in the Alps, for example?
100%! We all know what’s happened in the outdoor scene over the last few years and I’m glad to see people wearing outdoor gear everywhere!
There are a lot of outdoor brands right now sharing messages like “you’ll only find us in the mountains” or “for the athlete”, but if the product performs when it’s needed, then I’m happy it’s worn in the city as well as the mountains.
We work closely with the same factories and the same fabric mills that the older established brands do. We do vigorous testing out in the field as well as in the testing labs. All of our performance-based fabrics are tested for waterproof ratings and breathability MVTR tests, and products are fit for purpose with weight and fill power. I’ll be taking on some 6,000m peaks next year in PMO.
One of the challenges with running a brand is the constant switching between seasons. For example one day you could be signing off final samples for the forthcoming season, the next you could be beginning your research for something that won’t see the light of day for the best part of 2 years. It must be hard to stay present? How do you manage it?
It’s actually easier in the sports performance world than the fashion world, as the fabric tells the story. The fabric mills are so important to how we build what we build. Their knowledge, testing and guidance help to shape the initial steps of our design process.
I am continuously designing and testing. The hardest part is when you create the perfect garment, you then have the waiting game for the customer to see it and share in your excitement. You may wait a year from the finished sample to selling to buyers, then production, and finally shipping.
Talk us through the inspiration behind your current season?
The current season continues the narrative of exploration. Titled “Echoes of Terrain”, AW25 took us to the ancient glacial landscapes running through the Yorkshire moors. The texture and the land formations led us to look at pronounced textures through fabrics, so expect Polartec Alpha Direct and ripstop 3-layer shells.
The colour palettes are always things we think long and hard about, and this season was no exception. Continued inspiration coming from Yorkshire, with the dark winter hills and ancient woodlands of the area contrasted by the pinks and purples of the natural heather.
Those of us old enough to remember pre-social media will remember that the first time people might interact with a brand would be in person, at a shop. These days, you’re more likely to create that first impression through a phone screen. How important is it, therefore, to get your content bang on?
I remember it well, I started my journey into design working on the shop floor at a high end fashion store. It was all about touching fabrics and trying pieces on, speaking to customers and understanding what they liked and what they didn’t about the products.
Social content has made the world a smaller place, and it’s harder to convey the quality of a piece through a picture or to find those unique items. I would travel to Tokyo, New York or Manchester and see completely different products from brands I had never heard of, but all of that has changed, and many retailers house the same collections.
Our content has always been driven by getting outdoors and being with our mates. Honestly, having the ability to use the brand (and the budgets) to get your friends together outside means everything. One week we might be hiking and shooting in the Dolomites, grabbing dinner and beers with our Italian mates and then the next week drone kayaking in the lakes with our Manchester pals! I think this is true/real content! The ultimate goal is a big PMO camper travelling around Europe!
What should we expect from SS26?
Think more fabric experiments, mega colour palettes, unusual new fabric textures and glow in the dark jackets! The observation of earth and space!
If PMO were a band or artist, who would it be?
Proclaimers, you all know how it goes. They walked a lot!
How far do you reckon you can take PMO? At what point do you think you’ll be able to confidently sit back, fold your arms and go ‘Completed it, mate.’?
How long is a piece of climbing rope?
I reckon there’s a lot more room in the outdoor market to grow, and I want to take some of that room. I like being the small, disruptive brand, being agile and experimental, but I want more people to see what we are up to.
I have huge goals of remote office locations, unique store spaces and growing our wonderful team, so I’m far from ‘folding my arms’ right now.
What is one piece of advice you’d share with a someone looking to get into the clothing industry in a creative capacity?
If you’re willing to commit your life to the project then jump in! It’s not just clothing it’s all consuming!
Thankfully, my wife is in the same industry, and she also loves the outdoors, so she gets it! Also, be good to people! You cannot build a brand on your own! It’s good to be nice!
Thanks for chatting today!
Purple Mountain Observatory is available to be purchased now, from SEVEN STORE.
