Despite efforts to overthrow its reign of terror, gorpcore still holds a strong position in the Mancunian fashion scene. It’s hard to walk down the street without seeing the infamous Arc’teryx bird and a pair of Oakley sunglasses. However, an area of this trend’s progression, which I find particularly interesting, is the popularisation of feminine silhouettes and details, which allow for technical womenswear to stand out in an area of fashion that has always been very male-dominated.
Modular skirts, colourful bandanas and adorable bag charms have flooded my view from the coffee shops to the rolling hills. Finally, femininity is being recognised within the outdoor clothing world in a way that it is not simply shorter, tighter and pinker. But it’s been a long road, so how did we get here?
To answer this question we have to start at the beginning of hiking culture in Europe. It may not be hard to believe that, in the late eighteenth century and onwards, hiking, climbing and mountaineering were not seen as ‘lady-like’ activities. In fact, the idea of a woman even attempting to scale a mountain was, to most, laughable. However, despite social expectations, some determined individuals began scaling those mountains anyway. But what did they wear?
In a time when showing your bare ankle was scandalous and votes for women remained in the distant future, the standard dress for women was unsurprisingly restrictive. In 1808, Marie Paradis climbed Mont Blanc (FFA) in a full-length wool dress and bloomers. Now I’m not saying the men had access to GORE-TEX coats and Polartec fleeces, but in this situation, a pair of trousers is quite an advantage.
Those who were willing to break the status quo even further were left with one alternative: wear men’s clothing. The second woman to climb Mont Blanc was Henriette d’Angeville in 1838, and she did so in menswear, with the addition of a petticoat and a feather boa for a touch of glamour.
Over the years, controversial advancements were made, such as the knickerbocker (which almost got Annie Smith Peck arrested for indecency when climbing the Matterhorn) and modular designs. Skirts that could transform into capes and trousers were popularised for their practicality while remaining fashionable. These innovative designs demonstrate that femininity does not have to be lost to function. This could have been the start of a legendary progression of technical womenswear which stayed cool and relevant while keeping women safe in the wilderness, but unfortunately, we wouldn’t see much improvement for almost 100 years.
As the societal restrictions on women’s wardrobes steadily loosened and trousers and shorts could be worn without risk of imprisonment, creativity in the design of women’s technical wear plateaued. Now, this is not to say that good pieces didn’t come out of the 20th century, particularly in the 90s, but in terms of overall satisfaction and accessibility, most women came away feeling disappointed. From my own experience, I will be forever confused why the go-to silhouette was a carrot style leg in the same lazy magenta and teal colour palette!
In the 1980s, aerobics style took over as women tackled another male-dominated space, the gym. Gone were the days of at-home cardio in their blouses, and in came weights, toned abs and skin-tight spandex. Fitness and fashion experienced a long-awaited crossover since d’Angeville’s feather boa faced Mont Blanc. Gym-goers began wearing their fitness fits on the street, and soon athleisure was not just for working out; it became everyday attire.
But this trend had a knock-on effect for our mountain lovers. While some found leggings and leotards the ideal for all activities, others did not appreciate the shrinkification of their technical garments. Even puffer jackets became overly fitted, restricting movement, creating a reimagined version of the same issues our ancestors had in the 1800s. Once again, women were faced with the choice between uncomfortable womenswear or ill-fitting menswear.
However, despite its issues, this era did pave the way for our beloved gorpcore aesthetic; merging activewear and streetwear, allowing technical gear to make its way into the city without a second glance. Also, I’m not a hater of all things tight, a fitted gym top will never not look good, but there needs to be a balance.
The mid-90s and early 2000s brought hope. Prada Sport revolutionised athleisure, bringing technical fabrics, like nylon and GORE-TEX, from the mountains and into high fashion. For the first time, mountaineering was put on the catwalk. Asymmetrical zip tops, nylon mini dresses and sheer hiking-style trousers opened the door to a new world of futuristic outdoor garments. Naturally, this made its way from the runway and onto the high street. Nike ACG brought us the zip-off skirt, an adaptation of the classic zip-off cargo, bringing a refreshing wave of femininity and fun. This piece still remains widely popular, resurfacing in 2022 when Bella Hadid was seen sporting it.
For those who didn’t fancy rocking a skirt, the popularisation of baggy clothing in all areas of fashion meant the parachute pant finally made its debut. This silhouette has now become a staple in every gorpgirl’s wardrobe. The cargo capri, another go-to in the 90s, having its popularity resurface in recent years, is reminiscent of the divisive knickerbocker. Trends truly are cyclical, and I think Annie Smith Peck will be happy that this one is no longer getting anyone arrested.
This era was undoubtedly revolutionary when it comes to the way we thought about femininity and functional wear. Mountain-approved clothing was on the vision board for these fashion-focussed brands, but when it comes to practical gear for actual trails, the options were still lacking. Raincoats and puffers from trusted brands still fell into the “shrink it and pink it” mindset. While menswear adopted straight boxy fits, which could easily layer over chunky fleeces, the alternative for women was hourglass-shaped silhouettes with tight sleeves that may cut off circulation if paired with one too many layers. And if you weren’t a fan of pink and purple, your options became even more limited. The outdoors had entered the fashion world, but the fashion world hadn’t entered the outdoors yet.
This all changed in 2017 when Jason Chan coined the term “gorpcore” and Frank Ocean was spotted in that Arc’teryx jacket at the 2019 Paris Fashion Week. All of a sudden, everyone wanted to look like they ate trail mix for breakfast. With this came an increased interest in the outdoors; climbing, hiking and camping became common pastimes, and as a result, outdoor brands started investing more into interesting designs that would put them at the forefront of popularity.
However, most innovation was put into making menswear more functional and cool, and if women wanted to get involved they should just wear the men’s stuff and suck it up if the sleeves are too long. But, with the help of social media, women have spent the last 5 years or so building a space for themselves in this niche corner of fashion. Content creators like Sabrina Bloedorn have been inspiring women to explore the world of technical fashion while adding their own personal and feminine touches. Funky hairstyles, DIY bag charms, colourful headscarves, though technically unisex, have been largely used by women to express their love for fashion and nature.
Brands have finally started to make womenswear that women actually want to wear. The Peak Performance shell jackets embody the boxy relaxed fit, perfect for layering, women have been begging for for years. Liquixism, a small Ukrainian brand, created one of the best technical skirts for layering. Planet Nusa is creating breathable and flattering tops in almost every colour imaginable. Nots, a one-woman show out of Stockport, is making handbags out of old climbing rope. We are truly in a new era of creativity when it comes to fashion and it can be seen clearly through what our gorpcore girls are wearing on the streets and the trails.
It’s taken a long time to prove that functionality, femininity and good fashion sense can go hand in hand, but I hope our inspiring ancestors are proud of how far we’ve come.
This feature was researched & written by Rosie Stobbs
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