A legal drama from 1979 hardly sounds like the recipe for one of the most gripping and stylish films ever to grace our screens. Yet that’s exactly what we got with Kramer vs. Kramer (1979) – a film in which a determined Dustin Hoffman takes on the justice system to retain custody of his child, all while dressed in some of the finest menswear Hollywood has ever seen.
The film, set in the kind of gritty landscapes that only New York City can produce, perfectly captures that autumnal loads-of-layers look that was rife at the time. It’s a style that so many have tried to emulate since, but the beauty of Kramer vs. Kramer – and Hoffman’s style as Ted Kramer within it – is that clothing was never at the forefront of the film. Giving us some of the most effortlessly cool, thrown together menswear looks to ever appear on screen.
Take one of the film’s most iconic looks: the outfit Ted Kramer wears as he drops his son off in Central Park, where he reconnects with his mother for the first time since the divorce. At its centre is an M-65 jacket, zipped up to reveal a thick brown scarf, paired with tan needlecord trousers, cuffed just high enough to show a pair of Gucci loafers. Hardly the outfit you’d typically associate with a walk through Central Park, but one that oozes the kind of thrown-together nonchalance that films of the era seemed to nail so effortlessly.
Throughout the film, there’s a ton of other good looks too – Onitsuka Tiger trainers, flannel shirts, thermal hoodies, trench coats, knitwear, and a very nice duffle coat sported by Ted Kramer’s 3ft tall counterpart.
Kramer vs. Kramer took home the Oscar for Best Picture in 1979, and now, 47 years on, we’re adding another accolade to its name: one of the greatest menswear films of all time. To celebrate, we’ve put together a style guide inspired by Dustin Hoffman’s effortless style that shines throughout the film’s 105-minute runtime.
Few things say ’80s New York quite like a waffle zip-up hoodie. Kramer vs. Kramer knew it, with Hoffman wearing one in several scenes. Khakis’ version nails that lived-in downtown feel, with a pre-distressed finish that makes it look like it’s been in rotation since the film premiered.
Ted Kramer’s M65 is one of the most discussed pieces in any Kramer vs. Kramer style retrospective – and for good reason. Its military pedigree, utilitarian details and easy silhouette make perfect sense for a father balancing work, parenthood and legal bills. Our pick, Fjällräven’s Raven Jacket, captures that same rugged, functional spirit, with a waxed finish and striking on-screen likeness.
We can’t say for certain what Ted Kramer’s trousers were made from, but these Khakis’ Twill trousers come remarkably close. Implement a couple of cuffs, black socks and a pair of Gucci loafers, and you’ve got one of Hollywood’s most talked-about lower halves.
The Onitsuka Tigers sported by Ted Kramer on screen were the Montreal II – one of the brand’s very first jogging trainers. They stopped making those about 40 years ago, so these Serranos will have to suffice. And, in our opinion, they might just be even better than the on-screen counterpart.
An advertising exec is only as good as his shirting – and Ted Kramer took both his job and his flannel options incredibly seriously. This flannel from Fera is cut from a premium Japanese herringbone that undoubtedly would have earned a place in Ted’s working wardrobe.
Kramer vs. Kramer makes a compelling case that one of the best defences against New York City’s biting breeze is a seriously substantial scarf. This one from TDR is crafted from beautiful wool and looks about as cosy as they come.
Sage Nation – Westminster Overcoat
When he’s not in an M65 jacket or a zip-up hoodie, Ted Kramer opts for a reliable dusty-beige trench coat. It’s a little more formal than the Sage Nation one we’ve got here, but the shape and construction of this Westminster Overcoat are close enough that we simply couldn’t leave it out.
Given how short Ted Kramer likes to wear his trousers, it’s no surprise we get several looks at the socks he pulls on in the morning. And in a handful of scenes, he’s sporting a ribbed pair with a blue stripe that look outrageously similar to these TSPTR Sports Socks.
