It was only a few days ago that we announced the Return of ST95, but it’s important that, considering this is a magazine that grew out of a love for Osti, for terraces, for football, and for menswear, we continue to badger on about it.
Mark Smith waxed on about what the future might hold for ST95 (and for Left Hand, too) but it’s important to also consider the risks. How will 2021 – and the changing face of fashion – take to the relaunching of one of Osti’s last side projects?
On one hand, Stone Island is bigger than ever, propelling the man’s name to almost household status, benefiting from American co-signs, a huge following gained from grime and other very English music genres, and a reinvigorated interest from collectors and resellers.
But that’s Stone Island. How will audiences – especially those that might worship Stone for the badge, not the heritage – react? For example, many other Stone-related projects, like M.A. Strum, have niche followings, and while they boast associations from affiliated designers, the following is still quite contained. Does it need to reach Stone – or even C.P.’s – level of attention? Does it want to?
Identity considerations aside, Raeburn has done excellent things on his own, pioneering sustainability, and with brands like Moncler, Porter Yoshida, The North Face and others. Let’s hope that design skill is recognised for its own sake, and that fashion really isn’t as fickle as logo-worshipping suggests.
Some stand out pieces include the Fleece Liner, with nylon and fleece paneling, which, as well as offering warmth on its own accord, can be fitted into the Geo Parka, making the items uniquely modular. Osti began to utilise different assortments of inner linings in his final years at Stone, as well as with Left Hand and ST95, before their disbandment. The parka also harks back to early Osti, with its overt military essence. The shape of this Drogue Smock also conjures up the early tela stella, perhaps just in the use of a large, centralised detail.
Osti’s legacy is a difficult weight to carry, and whether that weight will manifest as a spectre or a blessing, is yet to be discovered. Regardless, we’re excited to see how the future of ST95 shapes itself.
All of the aforementioned items, and the rest of ST95’s new range, are available at Yards Store.